Chef Howard Dubrovsky and Chef Chris Scott's new addition to College Street, is admittedly an ambitious effort. And while its location alone could be enough to keep it slammed with a semi-sophisticated bohemian crowd sipping Baltic whites with their bloomy cheeses, Live and Breathe - or rather, L.A.B. - curiously adheres to an ethos that diners have grown tired of; molecular gastronomy.
L.A.B. is postage-stamp small - it takes over the tiny space that was previously Bite Noodles - but it nonetheless packs maximum personality per square inch. Polished tables? Check. Puffy banquettes? Check. Handsome back bar? Check. Yes, all this and a day-glo wall mural provide the rustic backdrop for some seasonal, refined, rustic cuisine. But, there won't be any rustic fare at 651 College Street.
See, Chefs Dubrovsky and Scott (who was the right-hand man to David Adjey) have taken over what was an otherwise ignorable locale to be something of a stage, more or less, for their own version of all things molecular; small plates, high concept. The dishes on L.A.B’s menu don’t really fall under any specific genre of food, but Dubrovsky describes the general category as "accessible molecular gastronomy," which leaves us curling a brow. While ‘molecular gastronomy’ may register as circa 2007, the boys say they have their own way of working with cultural culinary techniques and global ingredients - just prepared and combined in a way you’ve likely never had before.
The pre-opening tasting menu features a small but wickedly original sampling, if a tad Food Network-esque: With the "No Rhyme Risotto," the Cabernet Sauvignon powder playing ingénue to Dubrovsky's carrot risotto ($16). The Korean gnocchi ($16) with a pomodoro sauce boasts house-made ricotta and Thai basil. I suppose sous vide had to make its way into the picture, and here it is in a lamb version ($24), with cigar-smoked gnocchi and brown butter. And seriously, how can anyone resist a thing called "Steak and Cake" - 8-hour steak, carrot, beet and onion cakes ($27). Sold!
Molecular gastronomy aside (and we assure you, this is the last mention of that phrase you'll see on MBO), the cooking at L.A.B. is smart and imaginative, the food that results from it elegant and full of flavour. (The plates aren’t even that small.) Aside from kicking some life into "words-that-can-no-longer-be-mentioned", the team of Dubrovsky and Scott will need a hook to stand out on this far end of College. The menu - which is remarkably free of stuff that’s available everywhere else - will certainly be the trump card - but the little space designed by The Design Agency (the team that just finished up re-designing Brassaii) should seal the deal.
At a Glance
On my second visit it was packed and my guests were late but owners came by (they remembered me) and made us a drink and were very accommodating. I was impressed as I had only been there once before, it probably didn't hurt we were one of only two tables in that first night. When everyone arrived we were served promptly and the food was wonderful.
What impressed me the most is that even on a busy night we had the same level of enthusiasm and interest that I received on the first night, they still took the same interest and care in helping us with our meal. You can't help but like a restaurant where the owners are so involved and are really passionate about their work. I hope to be back again soon and have recommended it to others.
It's also a great place for those entertaining vegetarian guests/dates, it's usually very hard to find good food and a nice atmosphere where a vegetarian has so many options without having to order off menu, here they had a lot of choices.
Joking aside, Live and Breathe was FANTASTIC. The soup was a solid chicken broth onion soup, the mains were great, apps, etc... solid. Even the multiple variations of surf and turf were good. Service was top notch, friendly, informative, never stuffy but definitely professional and well trained. I was pleased to see them serving from the proper side, but then again... I am a dork like that.
The (L.A.B) dessert was a hit too... so you see them happy it's hard to be upset. A great meal, a little pricey... but a nice random adventure. *Might* be back... there's just too many places to eat!
The best part is the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant. It doesn't fit a lot of people, and we never saw anyone in there with their children.
the staff is hot though. and I'm into that.
and there's usually some good people there. and usually some tools.
c'est la vie. tu sabes?
Appetizers were delicious, entrees fantastic, especially the lamb and the risotto!
Desserts were superb!!!
Can't wait for official opening!!
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